Today I began a very ‘unique’ waistcoat, in that it’s drafted using Devere’s 1866 manual, has an 1890s or later styled collar, and is made out of a bright and very cheerful pink cotton seersucker fabric. So no, this is not period correct at all — rather it’s for a member of Connecticut Valley Field Music for wear during the hot and humid summer when we don’t want to wear the wool frock coats.Read More»
The Jetted or Jeated Pocket is one of the most common pocket types, and forms the basis for many other pocket styles used in coats, waistcoats, and trousers. With this importance in mind, we’ll start with this pocket style in this tutorial series, and build upon your skills in future variations. For now, we will practice making the jettings only, without worrying about the pocket bag and other details. I highly recommend making at least ten pockets for practice, out of a variety of fabrics and weights: wool, silk, linen, cotten, using whichever scraps you may have leftover from other projects. This experience will benefit you greatly in the future.Read More»
For a slight change of pace, we will learn how to draft a gentleman’s nightcap today. I was in need of one a few months ago, and whipped the whole thing up in about in hour – drafting and sewing included. This draft will give you the basic shape of the nightcap, from which you can alter it as the style requires.Read More»
Plait or pleat pockets in a frock coat are often misunderstood, construction wise, and can be tricky to do correctly. Studying an original coat in my collection, I have reconstructed the methods of making these pockets, and share them for your edification. Your coat should be sewn together at the sidebody and forepart, and skirt seams. The back should not yet be attached before beginning.Read More»
Things have been very busy around here lately. On Saturday I’m leaving for Switzerland with Connecticut Valley Field Music, and it seems like there is always something left to do. I still have time to write this post, of course!
Yesterday was spent hemming two pairs of trousers, and making a few repairs on my own pair. Marching twenty or more parades a year definitely puts a lot of wear and tear on the uniforms. I’m glad we chose the heavier weight wool for the trousers, even though they are a bit warmer to wear – otherwise, they would have been falling apart by now.Read More»