Unlock the Secrets of the Frock Coat

Back when I was getting started in the Civilian side of reenacting, I found myself without any decent clothing to wear, save for a Confederate uniform. Obviously, that was not going to work. Having only a few months until my first event, I frantically searched online for a frock coat pattern. Little did I know what I was getting myself into. After choosing some cheap wool fabric from a local fabric store with the help of my mother, I set to work constructing the coat. The fabric was a thinly striped blue fabric, much too light weight for a proper frock coat.

I sat down and tried to make sense of the instructions, following the crude illustrations. Somehow, I managed to cut out the fabric and sew the pieces together. Having no idea what I was doing, the coat was made with no pleats or tail pockets, had side pockets on the skirt, a very flimsy interlining, and was ‘bag lined’, meaning the lining was sewn to the body right sides together, and simply turned. The collar was pad stitched, but with my lack of experience, had no actual affect on the collar, which remained limp and poorly pressed. After the coat was finished, a friend took a look at it and said “You should take the sides in a few inches”. Having no concept of period fit, I had made the coat several sizes too large .

Cutting a Silk Waistcoat

Today I worked on cutting out a silk waistcoat, drafted from Devere, 1866. I obtained the silk brocade from Needle and Thread in Pennsylvania a few years ago, and plan to wear this with my linen frock coat for summer. To start off, I drafted the proportionate waistcoat pattern with my personal measurements.

Natural Dyeing with Madder Root

The Madder Root

Prior to the creation of man made, synthetic dyes in the late 19th century, all dyeing was done with natural products. One such dye was extracted from the the roots of the Madder family or Rubia, a type of perennial scrambling shrubs and herbs. These Madder plants grow in many parts of the world, and were popular in Europe during the early 1800s, being introduced from the exotic lands of the Middle East, particularly Turkey. In this post, I will explain how to extract and dye fabric with the roots of the Madder plant. I will be dying a piece of jean cloth from Family Heirloom Weavers to use as interlining in my coats.

Another Frock Coat

It seems these Enlisted Frock Coats have become my specialty. My latest is number twenty five. Here are some photos with brief descriptions for your enjoyment.

Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Construction – Part 1

Today begins a series of tutorials on constructing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat, as was used during the American Civil War. I’ve made about a dozen of these coats in the past year, with more under way as you read this. In this post, we will mainly discuss the tail facings, preceded by some cutting photos.

Staying the Fork

Most of you have experienced a pair of trousers developing holes and tears in the crotch, probably at the least convenient time. Tailors have developed a way to help prevent these issues, called staying the fork. Since this area of the trousers takes the most stress, it’s important to reinforce it. The stay also prevents the bias from stretching in this area, and offers a little more protection from moisture.