Federal Enlisted Frock Coat
Frock Coats
Reefer Jacket
My latest project is a Reefer Jacket, sometimes known as a Pea Coat. Drafted from Devere's manual. Work in progress.
Reefer Jacket
Frock Coats
Clerical Style Waistcoat
This is a clerical cut waistcoat, made out of Hainsworth superfine wool. It's actually intended for military use, but please note I am not taking military orders at this time, except for frock coats. This waistcoat is 95% handsewn, the only machine sewing being on the main seams that are hidden from view.Here you can see the left side of the waistcoat with the pocket completed, and all of the basting stitches holding the canvas and stay tape in place. The short, cut threads indicate the inlays, used for fitting purposes.
Here is the first of nine buttonholes. People often think they are machine sewn, but these are all done by hand. Along the edge are indentations from the top stitching.
A close up of the buttonhole. One must strive to get every stitch perfect. This one is close!Inside of the vest, showing the canvas (grey), the white linen button stay, and the stay tape around the edge.
Here, the wool batting has been added, and the front edge and bottom have been basted over, pressed, and cross stitched to the canvas. The padding helps to give shape to the chest area. Next step is to add the facing.
Here is the inside of the completed waistcoat. You can see the facing, as well as the lining carefully felled to the facing. These stitches should be nearly invisible. Also note the topstitching around the armscye.
Closeup of the lining being felled to the facing.
Another shot of the completed buttonholes.
Pocket details. My pockets are entirely handstitched.
Front view showing the buttons. 
Side view showing the overall silhouette of the waistcoat.
The completed waistcoat. This is made for a client several times bigger than the tailor's form.
Clerical Style Waistcoat
Waistcoats
Silk Collarless Waistcoat
Here are some photographs of a completed waistcoat I recently made. As you can see, it is of a silk brocade, and has no collar. This was fashionable during the 1860s, and became even more so over the years. Although collarless, it is cut with a band to take the place of the collar.The draft I used came from Devere's Handbook of Practical Cutting, 1866.
Here is my draft:
After the pattern is complete, the fabric is cut out, marked with tailors tacks, and construction begins. Here, the front dart is basted together, then backstitched closed:
The dart is opened up on the inside, and pressed open. This fabric frays badly:
The dart from the right side:
Finally, the dart is topstitched, using a side stitch. The stitching needs to be nearly invisible, and is made a scant 16th of an inch away from the dart:
That's it for the construction photos. For other details of the inside construction, please take a look at my Clerical patterned waistcoat. Here is a front view of the nearly finished waistcoat. At this point I am still looking for nicer glass buttons to better match the fancy silk. A final pressing is also necessary.
A somewhat lighter shot.
A closer look at the shoulder area. Notice how the stripes seem to lead toward the center back, in a graceful curve.Pocket closeup. This silk proved very difficult to match due to the smoothness of the fabric, and also the dart placement. I used the period technique of using the lengthwise stripe to make the pocket welt.
A side shot showing the angle of the shoulder seam, and depth of the armscye. While a little deeper than a coat, the armscye comes up nearly to the armpit, to give a much better range of motion.
Silk Collarless Waistcoat
Waistcoats
Federal Enlisted Frock Coat
My latest Federal Enlisted Frock Coat. A huge amount of work has gone into this coat, drawing from my past experience of making over two dozen of these coats. The wool is a navy blue superfine broadcloth, imported from Hainsworth in England.
I chose Williams Clothiers, LLC for my period clothing because I wanted it done right! I first saw a coat Jim made for himself and was impressed with the attention to detail. The right fit and appropriate construction are rare combinations found in the hobby. I had to have one so I asked Jim to make a coat for me. I couldn’t be happier with the product and the entire process was interactive which he assured would happen. True to his word. His willingness toward quality and tailoring in the period style and methods led me to choose Jim over other competitors. Jim has an eye for fit and a good understanding of how to make that happen. Many folks will state there products conform to a “contract fit” meaning standard sizes for all but tailoring records for dress uniforms indicate fit was important and much sought after. I wanted the ability to have that option and did. Watching the construction process and the fittings as they came together was very exciting. The detail in material, thread, stitch and cut in the period correct manner was exciting. Many of my previous purchases were off the shelf or self constructed and to watch and appreciate the workmanship was truly to my envy. Outstanding button holes! Overlaps and lining installed properly. Hand stitching in all the right places with details in thread count that exceed anything I have seen commercially available. Quality materials across the board. I have no complaints. I only hope he is able to maintain this level of quality as demand for his products rise. I’ve been in this hobby all my life and I’ve seen some great people come and go, in regards to reconstruction of great products. Don’t let industry burn-out happen to you! I gave Jim period buttons to sew on my coat. I was concerned that the loss of one might occur. As I examined the attachments I could see that he went the extra mile to ensure they would not disappear. Fantastic work!Peter B. Emerick
Federal Enlisted Frock Coat
Frock Coats
Federal Enlisted Trousers
These trousers were custom made for a gentleman in the New England Brigade, a local reenactment group. One of the customizations I made was to put the watch pocket on the left side of the trousers, as he is left-handed. They are half lined with brown polished cotton, finished by hand, and were drafted from a custom pattern made according to his measurements.
Federal Enlisted Trousers
Trousers- Just cut a double breasted frock coat today. What are you working on lately?
- Started preparations for attaching the facing on my enlisted frock coat today.
- Save 15% this weekend only! Gift certificates also available for my frock coat workshops. http://t.co/3ExfhTCw
