Clerical Style Waistcoat
Waistcoats This is a clerical cut waistcoat, made out of Hainsworth superfine wool. It’s actually intended for military use, but please note I am not taking military orders at this time, except for frock coats. This waistcoat is 95% handsewn, the only machine sewing being on the main seams that are hidden from view. Here you can see the left side of the waistcoat with the pocket completed, and all of the basting stitches holding the canvas and stay tape in place. The short, cut threads indicate the inlays, used for fitting purposes.
Here is the first of nine buttonholes. People often think they are machine sewn, but these are all done by hand. Along the edge are indentations from the top stitching.
A close up of the buttonhole. One must strive to get every stitch perfect. This one is close!
Inside of the vest, showing the canvas (grey), the white linen button stay, and the stay tape around the edge.
Here, the wool batting has been added, and the front edge and bottom have been basted over, pressed, and cross stitched to the canvas. The padding helps to give shape to the chest area. Next step is to add the facing.
Here is the inside of the completed waistcoat. You can see the facing, as well as the lining carefully felled to the facing. These stitches should be nearly invisible. Also note the topstitching around the armscye.
Closeup of the lining being felled to the facing.
Another shot of the completed buttonholes.
Pocket details. My pockets are entirely handstitched.
Front view showing the buttons.
Side view showing the overall silhouette of the waistcoat.
The completed waistcoat. This is made for a client several times bigger than the tailor’s form.
