Civilian Frock Coat Workshop

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A frock coat is often regarded as the most difficult garment to make in the world of men’s tailoring. Commercial patterns are often lacking good instructions, or contain simplified construction techniques to make the sewing more accessible. The patterns are often based on later period drafting systems, as well.

It is possible to learn to make these coats correctly after years of research and trial and error. A lot of the information is found scattered about in old tailoring manuals, provided you can make sense of the writing style and terminology they usually use. Diagrams are a rarity, and of dubious quality, at best.

Since tailoring my first frock coat about seven years ago, I’ve put countless hours into research and practice, learning the fine art of tailoring during the Nineteenth Century. I would like to share some of that knowledge with you, in hopes of improving the quality of men’s clothing seen at historical events today. I am pleased to announce an online workshop on making a double breasted civilian frock coat, coming in January 2012.

This is a rare opportunity to get detailed instruction from a professional tailor on how to make up a frock coat. Imagine yourself at an event, getting nice comments from spectators and fellow reenactors alike on how accurate and beautiful your frock coat looks. In this workshop, you’ll learn the professional methods and secrets of the tailor that will make your coat stand out from the crowd. Each step of the process will be fully explained, from drafting your pattern, to padding the lapels, to creating buttonholes that rival the originals.

How the Workshop Works

This workshop is different than the typical workshop, in that it is run entirely online. This has some very good advantages. First, upon signing up, you can work at your own pace. If you are taking your time, there is no way to fall behind, since you are working in your own home on your own schedule.

The course officially opens on January 2, 2012. But after that, whichever day you sign up, you begin the course, and weekly, another module will be sent to you. In total, it is a 16 week course, to make sure you do not get overwhelmed with all of the new information.

Expect to put 150 to 200 hours into your frock coat. It may seem like a lot, but broken down, it works out to about 9 – 12 hours a week. Again, that is just to stay in time with the workshop. You can absolutely take your time and put in fewer hours per week. I know many of you have busy schedules and real life to work around. As you can see, holding the workshop online has the benefit of being spread out over a longer period of time. Imagine spending 200 hours at once in a ‘live’ workshop. That’s over a week, and don’t forget about what that would cost!

Format

The workshop will be held in two different formats. First, you’ll get a PDF sent to the email address you sign up with. This will be in a high resolution format for printing out at home. I’d suggest printing out each week and putting it in a binder. The other format will be as a web page in a member’s only section on my website. The benefit of the web page is that I can include many more photos, videos and more that can be viewed in greater detail on your computer screen. There will also be a support forum where you can post photos and questions of your progress, and where I will provide personalized help.

Pre-Register Today

Upon registering, you will receive a confirmation email to opt-in to my special workshop email list, from which you will receive all the updates and relevant links on the website. I will be sending out the Introductory module on Monday the 28th so that you can get started with shopping for supplies and begin the measuring process. On January 2, the course will start in full, and you will then receive the weekly updates.

Syllabus

Below you will find a tentative syllabus. The order is subject to change depending on the needs of the students.

Module 1 – Introduction and Measurements

• Welcome
• About the Author
• Drafting Supplies
• Fabrics and Trimmings
• Other Supplies
• Complete Measurement Guide
• Custom Spreadsheet for Recording Measurements
• Shopping and Supplier List

Module 2 – The Draft

• Louis Devere’s System of Drafting
• Breast Measurement Scaling
• Using Graduated Rulers and the Tailor’s Square
• Draft the Back, Forepart, and Side
• Easy to Follow Modern Diagrams
• Complete Set of Graduated Rulers

Module 3 – The Close Fitting Wrapper

• Marking up and Truing the Pattern
• Transferring the Pattern
• Seam Allowances
• Striking the Pattern
• Constructing the Close-Fitting Wrapper

Module 4 – Fitting and Alterations

• Use of the Supplementary Measures
• Balance
• Stooping and Erect
• Thin and Stout Waists
• Long and Short Bodied
• Variations in Shoulders
• Changes in Fashion
• Common Misfits
• Applying the Corrections

Module 5 – Completing the Draft

• Drafting the Back Skirt
• Drafting the Front Skirt
• Drafting the Lapels
• Constructing a Full Muslin

Module 6 – Preparing to Sew

• Treatment of Fabrics
• London Shrinking
• Basting Stitch
• Tacking
• Backstitch
• Side Stitch
• Prick Stitch
• Cross Stitch
• Felling
• Padding Stitch
• Stoting

Module 7 – Striking and Cutting

• Striking the Pattern
• Proper Cutting Techniques
• Inlays
• Piecing the Skirt
• Fishes
• Ironwork and Pressing Technique
• Basting the Coat Body

Module 8 – Pockets and the Body

• Breast Welted Pocket
• Back Vent Construction
• Exterior Pleat Pockets
• Completing the Body

Module 9 – The Canvas

• Cutting the Canvas
• Preparation
• Installing the Canvas
• Padding the Lapels
• Taping the Canvas

Module 10 – Quilting the Lining

• Stoting the Facings
• Preparing the Linings
• Inside Breast Pockets
• Quilting the Lining
• Period Quilting Designs

Module 11 – The Facings

• Installing the Facings
• Installing the Lining
• Interior Pleat Pockets
• Finishing the Back Vent

Module 12 – The Collar

• Preparing the Undercollar
• Pad stitching the Collar
• Attach Collar to Coat
• Preparing the Top Collar

Module 13 – The Sleeves

• Drafting the Sleeves
• Ironwork
• Constructing the Cuffs
• Installing the Sleeves

Module 14 – Buttonholes

• Determining Spacing and Alignment
• Cutting the Buttonholes
• Gimp or Four-cord Usage
• The Buttonhole Stitch

Module 15 – Piping, Trim and Buttons

• Different Methods of Applying Piping and Trim
• Cloth Covered Buttons
• Embroidered Buttons

Module 16 – Final Pressing

• Pressing the Coat
• Care of the Coat