Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Workshop

Are you in reproducing a top-notch Enlisted Frock Coat reproduction, but don’t know where to start?

Not satisfied with the sack-like quality of many of the reproductions on the market today?

I am pleased to announce a home-study course on how to tailor one of these fine garments yourself. The course is completely self-paced, and you will receive a new module weekly over a period of twelve weeks in your email inbox. The course is taught via printable PDF instructions, video examples, and a message board for answering your questions. At the end of these twelve weeks, you will have in your possession an article of clothing that you will cherish the rest of your life.

The Federal Enlisted Frock Coat is often regarded as being mysterious and complicated to construct. Through my step by step guide, complete with detailed drawings and descriptions, we will unlock these mysteries and other secrets of the tailoring trade.

Pockets and Collar Details

Here are a few photos of today’s work. Since the enlisted frock coats were unlined in the skirt, the tail pockets are exposed. The following photo shows a completed pocket, still with basting stitches in place. It is made out of a brown polished cotton, with a wool facing. Care must be taken when pressing the polished cotton. If done incorrectly, the fabric will lose it’s shine, leaving you with a dull brown cloth instead. Use a press cloth and lower heat setting.

Another Frock Coat

It seems these Enlisted Frock Coats have become my specialty. My latest is number twenty five. Here are some photos with brief descriptions for your enjoyment.

Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Construction – Part 1

Today begins a series of tutorials on constructing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat, as was used during the American Civil War. I’ve made about a dozen of these coats in the past year, with more under way as you read this. In this post, we will mainly discuss the tail facings, preceded by some cutting photos.

Staying the Fork

Most of you have experienced a pair of trousers developing holes and tears in the crotch, probably at the least convenient time. Tailors have developed a way to help prevent these issues, called staying the fork. Since this area of the trousers takes the most stress, it’s important to reinforce it. The stay also prevents the bias from stretching in this area, and offers a little more protection from moisture.