Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Workshop

Are you in reproducing a top-notch Enlisted Frock Coat reproduction, but don’t know where to start?

Not satisfied with the sack-like quality of many of the reproductions on the market today?

I am pleased to announce a home-study course on how to tailor one of these fine garments yourself. The course is completely self-paced, and you will receive a new module weekly over a period of twelve weeks in your email inbox. The course is taught via printable PDF instructions, video examples, and a message board for answering your questions. At the end of these twelve weeks, you will have in your possession an article of clothing that you will cherish the rest of your life.

The Federal Enlisted Frock Coat is often regarded as being mysterious and complicated to construct. Through my step by step guide, complete with detailed drawings and descriptions, we will unlock these mysteries and other secrets of the tailoring trade.

Announcing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Workshop

Are you in reproducing a top-notch Enlisted Frock Coat reproduction, but don’t know where to start?

Not satisfied with the sack-like quality of many of the reproductions on the market today?

I am pleased to announce a workshop on how to tailor one of these fine garments yourself. The workshop will be spread over  a period of twelve weeks, and will be conducted online, through printable PDF instructions, a message board for more personal attention, and video. At the end of these twelve weeks, you will have in your possession an article of clothing that you will cherish the rest of your life.

The Federal Enlisted Frock Coat is often regarded as being mysterious and complicated to construct. Through my step by step guide, complete with detailed drawings and descriptions, we will unlock these mysteries and other secrets of the tailoring trade.

Pockets and Collar Details

Here are a few photos of today’s work. Since the enlisted frock coats were unlined in the skirt, the tail pockets are exposed. The following photo shows a completed pocket, still with basting stitches in place. It is made out of a brown polished cotton, with a wool facing. Care must be taken when pressing the polished cotton. If done incorrectly, the fabric will lose it’s shine, leaving you with a dull brown cloth instead. Use a press cloth and lower heat setting.

Ladies Single-Breasted Frock Pattern

While making over two dozen frock coats for Connecticut Valley Field Music, I inevitably came across the issue of having to fit women into a man’s coat. For the first couple of women’s coats, I used the same Devere’s pattern as the men. This worked somewhat with certain builds. But I finally came across some body types that would not work with these patterns. I tried Devere’s riding habit and ladies’  paletot pattern first, but the dropped shoulder on each of them would have looked out of place with the others. Finally, after hunting through my library, I came across the following draft for a Ladies Single-Breasted Frock Coat in an October, 1903 issue of The Practical Cutter and Tailor.

Another Frock Coat

It seems these Enlisted Frock Coats have become my specialty. My latest is number twenty five. Here are some photos with brief descriptions for your enjoyment.

Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Construction – Part 1

Today begins a series of tutorials on constructing a Federal Enlisted Frock Coat, as was used during the American Civil War. I’ve made about a dozen of these coats in the past year, with more under way as you read this. In this post, we will mainly discuss the tail facings, preceded by some cutting photos.